Monday, November 23, 2015

Hardware for Cookieware

Maybe because my birthday is coming up and I'm all like AHHHHH I'm old, and stuff, but considering what's next is more and more on my mind. Working as a cookie artist doesn't sound like a bad gig so I have a few years to hone my skills and build a customer base before I retire for the second time. The recent addition of the KopyKake projector was an investment that just had to be made. With the addition of the airbrush I will be able to attempt the most challenging of cookie designs. 

I bought an Airbrush

Ever clean an airbrush? Its loads of fun. So I found this wonderful breakdown.

How to Take Apart and Clean Your Airbrush

First, mix two tablespoons of white distilled vinegar with two cups warm distilled water (tap water is ok if you don’t have hard water) in a glass bowl and set aside. You can also use premixed airbrush cleaner, but be sure not to use any products that contain ammonia. It will corrode the brass parts & cause a funky build up. Ick!
Before taking apart your airbrush, make sure it is disconnected from the air hose. You’ll want to work on a flat, clean, light colored surface. Some of these pieces are itty bitty, and can be hard to find if you drop them (trust me). I use a white pillow case that I’ve numbered from one to ten. It’s washable and the labeling helps me keep the parts in the same order that I removed them in. I just spread that over my work table, and it makes the process go much more smoothly.
Note: I’m demonstrating with a Duff airbrush, but all gravity feed airbrushes are essentially the same. The only difference between cleaning the Duff and KopyKake airbrushes is that the trigger/main lever can be removed from the KopyKake model.
Now, for the fun…disassemble the airbrush in the order below. Here are some very brief instructions. Keep in mind there are a few different approaches, this is just my preference.
1. Unscrew needle cap
2. Unscrew nozzle cap
3. Use wrench to loosen and remove nozzle
4. Unscrew handle
5. Unscrew needle chucking nut
6. Very carefully remove needle, by pulling it out, towards the back. Sometimes, you might need to twist it a tad.
7. Unscrew spring guide. The threading is long, so it might take a while.
8. Remove spring
9. Pull out needle chucking guide
10. Remove auxiliary lever, by twisting 90ยบ and pulling straight out.
Have you ever wondered what all of these parts are called? No worries, I’ve labeled them just for you! That’s a mouth full, right?
Once you’ve disassembled your airbrush, you’re ready to clean it. It’s amazing all of the color build up you don’t see until you take it apart.
Keep in mind, it’s best not to let your airbrush parts soak overnight. It will not ruin your airbrush, but it can completely remove the lubrication that allows the airbrush to work smoothly.
So, now that your airbrush parts are sparkly clean (and dry), you’re probably wondering how in the heck to put it back together. Once you get past the first step, it’s super easy! Here’s a quick peek at the order that they go back together,
To assemble, follow the instructions below:
After you’ve replaced and tightened the spring guide (Step 4), double check your trigger. Pull it back and make sure it’s not too loose. If it feels too loose, then you’ve not tightened the spring guide enough.
Voila! Your airbrush is clean! Here’s a before and after. You can really see the difference.
Before you go, here are some tips and additional troubleshooting. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask in the comment section below.
Airbrush sprays without pulling the trigger:
Make sure needle is in all the way–remove handle, remove nut, gently pull needle back about an inch or two, then very gently push needle back in to the very end. Tightly Replace chucking nut, and then handle. It’s ok for air to be coming out, not color unless pulling the trigger
The trigger is loose or does not have any resistance when pulled:
The spring guide is not properly tightened. See steps two though four above.
The trigger is stuck, or has too much resistance when pulled:
There are several possibilities. This includes improper assembly, mineral buildup (use distilled water for cleaning to prevent this), or loss of lubrication from repeated cleanings. To re-lubricate your gun, use a clean cotton towel to apply a light cooking oil such as EVOO or food-grade sanitary lubricant the moving parts of the gun. This includes the auxiliary lever, needle chucking guide, spring guide, and the portion of the needle that slides when the trigger is pulled.
Airbrushing with pearl sheens or white:
Airbrushing with sheens or white colors can wreak havoc on your airbrush gun. If you notice spitting or spattering when you normally don’t, it’s time to take it apart to clean it.
Now, that your airbrush is sparkling clean it’s time to go forth and spray ALL the things!

Sunday, November 22, 2015

Stamp Club for November 2015

This month's club met at Kay's and we have new stampers and that's always fun. These projects were fun to do even with a migraine.

Sunday, November 8, 2015

Fort Knox Holiday Bazzar

Sold. Two of my beauties went to good homes. They will be missed. Never really thought these two would sell but their new owners convinced me they loved them as much as I did, so I agreed to give them up for adoption. 

Mindy and Steve break from the crushing crowd madness. Not really. 

Saturday, November 7, 2015

Fort Knox, Craft Booth 2015

So far the best part of the show has been seeing all my friends from across post. Sales were enough that two of the three participants, Mindy and myself made our portion of the booth rent. Steve made a sale that covered his lunch; his first sale ever. Very cool. Traffic at this event is Friday lunch hour  and after work, Saturdays is more like a slow trickle.

This year the event isn't being held in a tank motor pool. Yea. The Saber and Quill is carpeted and although a beautiful and humongous crystal chandelier hangs over my booth the lighting is MEH. It is the best venue for this event, humble opinion. Sadowski Field House was OK as was the Old NCO club (that is no more).

I did not have any luck getting a good shot without additional flash, so may give it another try today. The black fabric was too dark so I swapped it out mid day. It helped but I had already taken the camera home.

To the left is my wire and lampwork, Left Top is Steve's Copper sculpture and Mindy's Resin work to the right.

Mindy and Steve have their set up down to a science. I guess St James, and Cherokee Park year after year will do that. I really like the room feeling they created. But damn its a lot of work with a big vehicle necessary. 

This is my new line of small but mighty.

Here is Steve's Copper Corner.These of course are my larger pieces. Clearly everyone who commented appreciated the work and art in each piece however that didn't translate into sales, perhaps tomorrow.

Babes in Craftland.